Port of Copenhagen
Copenhagen: City With a Cultural Flair
By P W Mooney
Along Nyhavn Canal
A short flight from Oslo, brought me to Copenhagen a very different city from the one I had just left. Despite its size, the Copenhagen Airport is very easy to maneuver; and better still it is only 25 minutes or less from the city. Along the airport bus route to Copenhagen, I could see lovely white sand beaches and lots of windmills dotting the landscape—Denmark’s answer to alternative energy.
History has it that Copenhagen is 6000 years old although the first recorded record of a settlement was in 1043. Founded in 1167 by Bishop Absalom who erected a castle on the island of Slotsholmen. (Today it is the site of the current Christianborg Castle (www.ses.dk )—a fifth incarnation of the original one built during the 18th century— and currently the home of the Danish Parliament.) The town grew gradually in importance because of its strategic location on the sea. Copenhagen’s prosperous era occurred during the reign of King Christian IV (1588-1648), when it developed into a thriving commercial seaport.
Its prosperous era declined within the next century. After fighting off a Swedish invasion, bubonic plague killed off a third of the population during the 1711 epidemic. Then in 1728, a fire destroyed most of the city center. At the end of the century another fire ravaged the town. In 1807, much destruction was inflicted on the town during the Napoleonic Wars by the British fleet, who had disregarded Danish neutrality.
By the middle of the 1800s, the old town walls were razed and replaced by parks and lakes. Later after the Second World War, much of the old center was converted into pedestrian walkways. Today, Copenhagen is a vibrant capital of Denmark, a constitutional monarchy of 14 million inhabitants.
It’s a city of many contrasts and one to please all. Its Danish name København means merchants harbor, perhaps a reminder of the city’s long maritime history. The city seemed laidback, almost sleepy, at first encounter. That is, until you begin to explore it. One problem I had was that my hotel was not in the town center so some of the ambience one gets from being more centrally located was missing, not to mention the rainy weather I encountered during my brief stay. But once you start to walk the city, between showers, the mood changes to a more light hearted one. It dawns on you that Copenhagen is a lovely city, sort of a Venice of the North with canals curling around different
Apartments and yachts lined this canal
neighborhoods, much like its Italian cousin, and affecting a more tranquil mood. Since the city is so compact one can walk to most of its must-see sites—or take a canal boat trip that gives a completely different perspective. Or you could do what a majority of Danes do—ride a bike as Copenhagen is definitely a two-wheel city. And make sure to get the Copenhagen Pass (CPH Card) during your visit, a great money saver.
Start with the pedestrianized main street Strøget in the city’s old sector that begins at Town Hall Square (Rädhuspladsen). The Town Hall is open to the public and for a
Town Hall on Radhuspladsen
small fee you can climb to the clock tower.
Continuing on the cobblestone Strøget you will pass some fine design and clothing emporiums and boutiques that you may want to visit. The thoroughfare ends at the stately New Royal Square (Kongens Nytorv) established in the mid-1600s. A statue of King Christian V mounted on his horse overlooks the square ringed by impressive architecture including the Royal Theater and the Hotel D’Angleterre.
Off to your right, you will find the picturesque Nyhavn Canal, a popular gathering area for locals and visitors. Lined on both sides with Dutch-inspired architecture, lovely cafes and a chic hotel, it is where Danish writer Hans Christian Anderson once lived—actually he resided in several residences along the canal. (The writer of children’s fairy tales is
One of Anderson’s former residences on Nyhavn Canal
quite revered in Denmark and his stories, which I loved as a child, are often analyzed by the Danes for their presumably hidden dark meanings.)
At one end of the canal by the New Royal Square is an imposing anchor placed as a memorial to Danish seamen who died during World War II. It is also where you can take a narrated boat trip to explore the city’s canals and harbor and view its architecture from a different perspective.
Once you have lunch at a Nyhavn restaurant, explore the area a bit and then head north on Bredgade street towards the area where the rococo Amalienborg Palace (www.amalienborgmuseet.dk ) is located. Along the route there are some nice antique and fine art galleries to explore—and a home-made chocolates shop to tempt your taste buds. Home to the Royal family since 1794, Amalienborg Palace consists of four mansions ringing an
Amalienborg Palace
tours between May and October. The changing of the palace guard takes place daily at noon when the Queen is in residence.
A small park Amalienhaven separates the palace square from the waterfront residential area. The entire area of Amalienborg was planned in 1749 by King Frederik V as the central feature of a new district to be called Frederiksstaden.
Near the castle is theneo-Baroque Marble Church (Marmorkirken), officially known as Frederik’s Kirke. Completed at the end of the 1800s, its massive dome measuring 98 feet
Marble Church
in diameter replicates that of St. Peter’s at the Vatican and is one of the city’s famous landmarks. For a fee, you can climb to the top for some panoramic city views.
The previous day upon arriving in the city, I took a guided bus tour that included a visit to Rosenborg Castle (www.rosenborgslot.dk) built by Christian IV as a summer residence at the beginning of the 17th century. The castle started as a two-story summer house but an additional story and two small towers were subsequently added and the residence became an official royal one until the early 1700s. Once surrounded by a moat, the exterior of the redbrick residence remains much as it was when built in 1633 although the moat is gone, replaced by lovely gardens. Throughout the castle a wide variety of royal
Rosenborg’s Long Hall with lions guarding the throne
treasures grace the rooms—check out the three silver lions guarding the throne in the Long Hall on the top floor or the royal treasury collections in the basement. The gardens around Rosenborg called Kongens Have (CXY) provide a lovely area to brouse. Near the castle are Copenhagen’s Botanical Gardens laid out on land formerly occupied by the old town’s walls.
My bus tour, of course, paid the requisite visit to Copenhagen’s famed Little Mermaid— the bronze sculpture that overlooks the entrance to Copenhagen’s harbor not far from the Langelinie cruise ship pier—probably the
Little Mermaid
most popular tourist site after Tivoli in the city. The little statue—in place since 1913— was sculpted by Erik Eriksen who was inspired by Anderson’s fairy tale of the same name.
Elsewhere in Copenhagen there is the world famous Tivoli (www.tivoli.dk ), one of the oldest amusement parks still in existence (1843). Probably the top destination of visitors to the city, the park is a conglomeration of rides (27), five entertainment (pop and classical) venues, restaurants (40 including one with a Michelin star) and beautifully
The boat pond with Town Hall tower in the background
landscaped gardens spread out over 21 acres. The place is so busy with things to do that one could spend a day and not see it all. There’s a roller coaster and a free-flight ride but one ride that is special is the Flying Trunk—inspired by Anderson’s beloved stories. I rode in a small trunk-shaped car through an enclosed area to view animated scenes from his fairy tales—a delight for young and old. At night, when the park’s 120,000 lights
Tivoli at night
come on, Tivoli transforms into a magical kingdom for families to enjoy. First class classical and popular/rock music and dance performances take place in the park’s concert hall or three open-air stages while fireworks light up the skies three times a week.
The performing arts play an important role in the city’s cultural life. The Royal Theatre (www.kglteater.dk ) off the Royal Square has been around since the mid-1700s and is the
Royal Theater on the Royal Square
venue for theater, operas and other performances. An ultramodern and controversially designed Opera House (www.operahus.dk),which opened on Holmen Island in 2005, is another venue for opera and other musical events. Its ceiling is covered with 24 carat gold leaf while the maple wood interior walls and balconies display some of the country’s leading artists’ work.
Copenhagen has its share of lovely museums devoted to history, art and design. Some suggested museums to visit are the National Gallery (www.smk.dk ) with a permanent collection of both Danish and international art from 16th century to the present. The National Museum of Art (www.natmus.dk ) tells the history of the country dating back to 13,000 BC. And as Denmark is known for its design, you may want to visit the National Design Center (www.ddc.dk ), which melds design and architecture in various exhibits presenting both Danish and international design.
The NY Carlsberg Glyptotek (www.glyptoteket.dk ) displays the extensive art and sculpture collection by the brewer Carl Jacobsen. And since Denmark is known for its porcelain, there’s the Royal Copenhagen Museum (www.royalcopenhagen.com)
Royal Porcelain store on Strøget
in Fredriksberg on the western outskirts of the city that presents the history of porcelain making. If there’s time, visit the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (www.louisiana.dk ) about 23 miles north the city in nearby Humlebaek (accessible by train). It has an outstanding collection of modern art housed in buildings set in a lovely park graced by contemporary sculptures.
As for younger visitors, besides Tivoli, they will enjoy the canal boat rides, or Copenhagen Zoo (www.zoo.dk ) in Frederiksberg which has a brand new elephant house designed by the UK’s Norman Foster and a daily bird show that demonstrates the hunting techniques of raptors. Across from the City Hall is Hans Christian Anderson’s Wonderful World (H.C, Anderson Eventyrhuset) (www.topattractions.dk)
Denmark’s beloved storyteller
where one can listen to his fairy tales narrated with sound and lighting effects. Special programs for children are held at various museums including the National Gallery of Art (www.smk.dk and the National Museum of Danish and world history.
To fully catch the ambience of this city, you will need a good three days to visit the cultural and historic sites and absorb the vitality of what makes Copenhagen such a delightful city. One reason that makes this city so special are the Danes, who were recently rated as “the happiest people in the world” in a world survey by Leicester University in England, is that they are so congenial and fun loving. And this passes on to the lucky visitor seeing the city for the first time!
************
Getting There
Copenhagen is SAS Scandinavian Airlines home base, offering the most daily nonstop flights from the US to Denmark—New York, Washington, D.C., Chicago and Seattle.
Three classes of service are offered: Economy, Economy Premium, and Business Class.
Economy Premium offers more leg room and a leg rest not found in standard Economy. SAS also has a commodious business class lounge at the airport for business class passengers. Website: www.flysas.com
Europe’s efficient rail system offers an alternative way to travel to Denmark. Check out www.RailEurope.com.
Getting Around
First get a Copenhagen pass—CPH Card— that allows users free entry to about 60 museums and
attractions as well as free public transportation, including the metro from the airport, and discounts at select restaurants, shops and sightseeing. Available as a 24-hour or 72-hour card. Two children 9 and under free with one adult pass. The cards are available at Danish tourism centers, the airport and other venues or on line at www.cph.dk http://www.visitcopenhagen.com/tourist/what_to_see_and_do/cphcard/where_to_buy_cphcard. A very handy pocket guide comes with the card.
To tour the city from the water, take a Canal Tours boat at Nyhavn Canal (http://www.canaltours.com/dct/en ). The narrated bilingual tour lasts an hour.
Currency
The currency is the Danish Krone (DKK).
Hotels
Hotel D’Angleterre (www.nphotels.dk)
Considered the No.1 hotel in Copenhagen, it is a favorite with cruise goers. The building dates back to the 1700s and it was the home of such lights as Hans Christian Anderson and pianist Victor Borge (a Suite is named after him). Exquisite restaurant and a luxury spa.
Nyhavn 71(www.71nyhavnhotel.dk)
Nyhavn 71’s lobby
A centuries-old four-star hotel recently updated into a more mod establishment, it is a favorite of cruise goers for their pre- or post-stays. It is located at the end of Nyhavn and looks out into the city’s harbor. With 150 rooms and a lobby graced with artworks, the hotel is perfectly situated for city exploring.
Radisson SAS Scandinavia (www.radissonsas.com )
Copenhagen’s tallest building
A 20- to 30-minute walk from city center the 27-story hotel offers stunning views. (make sure to request a city view). Three restaurants, two of which serve Japanese or Thai food. There’s a charming park nearby. Bicycles free for guests.
Copenhagen island Hotel (www.copenhagenisland.dk ). This brand new, ultra-mod hotel, located on an artificial island in the city’s harbor, has 326 rooms with wireless Internet. Half of the rooms have water views.
Restaurants
During my stay in Copenhagen, I ate at several restaurants where the food and ambience were enjoyable and worth a return visit. They include:
Nyhavns Faergekro
Located at 5 Nyhavn, this quaint restaurant along the canal serves herring more than 12 different ways at the lunch buffet and traditional open-face sandwiches called smørrebrød. Dinner also served. Website: http://www.nf.dk/menukort.html
Restaurant Viva
Located on Langebro quay, this remodeled tugboat is now a restaurant serving delicious sea food with a modern flair. Weather permitting, there is outdoor seating on the deck with lovely views of the city. Website: http://www3.aok.dk/infosites/11220/3.html
Café Ultimo, Tivoli
This spacious restaurant offers “comfort” Danish and international food. A great way to end your visit to Tivoli. Website: http://www.cafeultimotivoli.dk/
Helpful Websites:
Visit Copenhagen www.visitcopenhagen.com
Denmark: www.visitdenmark.com
Cruises: www.Cruisecopenhagen.com
www.cruisebaltic.com
Photos by PW Mooney
*******************************
More information on Scandinavia at
Stockholm
Port of Stockholm
Oslo
Port of Copenhagen
